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Tag "Derek Hynd"

The above shot of Christian Redongo by Zak Noyle in Tahiti was just voted Surfer Magazine Photo of the Year. It’s certainly a lovely shot, no doubt about that, but I would be hard pressed to have to pick between that and the ones below. One thing is certain however – this years finest surfing photography was mas o menos owned by the talented Zak Noyle and Chris Burkard.

2011 was certainly a good year to be in Tahiti. One of the best water photographers in the biz, Zak Noyle, left his home island of Oahu with a small crew bound for Teahupoo. Talent is great when it comes to photography, but a little bit of luck never hurts either. Nature provided for this shot with a perfect peeling tube ridden by Christian Redongo, and the kind of rainbow that postcards are made of.

Derek Hynd finless at J-Bay by Alan van Gysen

Former pro surfer turned journalist Derek Hynd is one of surfing’s most enigmatic characters. This is why we sent Steve Shearer to learn what he could about Derek and his cult-hero persona and profile him for our October issue. What Shearer discovered that Hynd’s crusade against friction allows him to attain unnatural velocities. Here we see Derek reaching terminal velocity on a wide-open wall at J-Bay.

Iceland lineup by Chris Burkard

When most surfers think of their dream surf trip, they usually don’t picture throwing on a 5/4 wetsuit with booties and gloves in Nordic waters. Luckily for Chris Burkard and a small crew of surfers, this meant that they had all of Iceland’s frigid perfection to themselves. Burkard spent his stay shooting perfect, empty lineups and some of the most awe-inspiring landscapes that you could ever hope to find on a surf trip.

Jesse Merle-Jones from below by Zak Noyle

Nothing matches the calming effect of the underwater world. Even just a few feet below the surface things move in slow motion, colors are muted, hard edges become soft, and quiet envelopes everything. “I love this perspective because it gives surfers such a different view of what they normally see,” says Zak Noyle, who spent an entire day swimming on the reef with just a camera and a pair of goggles. “There’s so much going on below the water that’s hidden to the viewer above, from how shallow the reef really is to the way that the wave barrels and turns inside out on itself below the surface. It’s so beautiful. I kept forgetting to come up for air.” Photo: Noyle

Via Surfer Magazine

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New understated (Kelly Slater co-founded) clothing label VSTR has an interesting roster of contributors online, amongst them Derek Hynd who’s posted memories of South African shark encounters, cleverly titled Hyndsite #2. Derek’s penmanship is perfectly suited to this kind of storytelling. Chilling.

After about 100,000 rides in 40 years this is the only instance I have of total recall of paddling for a wave. I can still feel my head turning hard right to do two things. Check my position and check the shark. Sounds weird, but I can still feel my left arm digging a little harder to get a touch closer inside and a bit further away from the rhumb line of this phenomenal creature. I kept watching its left eye closing in. It was closed by membrane. I was no thought about whether it was good news or bad. I was just watching, stroking in.

Then I took off and ran down the line. There was nothing else for it.

Read the whole thing over at VSTR

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Surfer Magazine has posted an excerpt from a feature in their October issue on the always astute Derek Hynd and further finless contemplations. Great read, as always.

“Welcome to your New Religion.”

That’s Derek Hynd speaking, shaking my hand after I careened semi-successfully across a glittering waist-high pointbreak on my first finless ride.

This Hyndian religion sure is a strange old beast to classify. It’s far more than Free Friction…and it’s no religion of mercy, I’ll tell you that for free. It’s an unrelenting and prolonged derangement of the senses catalyzed by long-distance night drives between surf spots, anti-corporate rants, stream-of-consciousness historical analyses that intersect with current events, minimalism with respect to food, sleep, and stimulants, sharp and angular criticism of our dystopian realities, brutally unambiguous judgments about everything and everyone in the surf culture (he’s doing it right now, as he reads this!), and surfing. Relentless driving and hunting for surf. Hynd’s spartan surf program would leave a 20-year-old hipster in the dust, gasping for a soy macchiato.

Via Surfer Mag

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The last of this fantastic initiative by TSJ, here’s Andrew Kidman talking to Derek Hynd about the finless board.

Here, in this first of a two-part Andrew Kidman directed short, Derek walks Kidman/us through the deconstruction and rebirth of a finless surfboard, while Andrew’s youngsters augment the experience with emotive notes on an electric organ.

As the organ preaches to the beast and foul in the bush beyond the house, Hynd rips apart a perfectly good Lis-ish fish, and rebuilds it for finless sliding. Channeling his oldest friend, Dale Egan, one of Derek’s inspirations for leaving the keels on the beach, Hynd creates something very new out of something old.

As Kidman noted in an email correspondence that Hynd is completely committed to finless surfing. Hasn’t ridden a board with a fin in years. It’s an experience which has led Derek to wonder, in a Morey-esque mind expanding inquiry, “where would surfing have gone without the linearity of the fin?”

In part two, we see Derek take apart the local beach break, and we get a glimpse.

Via The Surfer’s Journal

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