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Mark Mathews pulls in and gets absolutely annihilated at the beastly The Right in WA.

When I saw it out the back, I knew it was the biggest one of the day. And I’d seen a couple when I was watching in the channel that were makeable and nearly that big. When I was whipping into it, I was just hoping that it would hit the reef right and just be perfect. But I let go of the rope and just as I got to the bottom of it, it just went real weird on the reef. It sort of hugged the corner of the reef and that’s what makes it close out. I was just like, “Fuck!” You know, there was nothing I could do but try and pull in.

Interview and full sequence shot by Ray Collins over at Surfer Magazine.

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The year of pain in review by Surfline. Nice with some commentary (to know they’re still alive).

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Tahiti resident Tim McKenna has captured some fantastic angles at what must be one of the world’s most photographed waves at the moment.

Tilt Shift lenses are frequently used in architectural photography to control perspective, and in landscape photography to get an entire scene sharp. They can also be used to create a selective focus area to simulate a miniature scene. Outrigger canoes, small boats, jetskis and surfers are perfect subjects for this. This is the photographic effect Tim has been working on while flying around French Polynesia these last few years.

Via Tim McKenna

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The new Craig Anderson Moments clip dropped some time ago and it is unreal. Nobody his age surfs with the same degree of style and composure. The introductory barrel, cutback and backside double-grab air-reverses (what?!) could close any respectable surf movie.

Via Quiksilver Australia / Vimeo

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This recap of John Florence’s incredible season finale in his backyard is well worth a watch.

A few days after Oahu’s 19-year-old John John Florence won Hawaii’s Triple Crown of Surfing, he took a moment to reflect upon being the youngest surfer in history to earn this coveted title. John John talks us through what it means to win in front of family and friends and, most of all, in his own backyard.

Via Tracks Mag

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Chris Bryan has just released some insane Phantom footage from the ridiculously gnarly August day at Teahupoo last year. Scary doesn’t even begin to cover it.

Update: The original video hosted on Chris Bryan’s Vimeo was pulled but the above YouTube embed is the same clip that someone else has uploaded.

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The above shot of Christian Redongo by Zak Noyle in Tahiti was just voted Surfer Magazine Photo of the Year. It’s certainly a lovely shot, no doubt about that, but I would be hard pressed to have to pick between that and the ones below. One thing is certain however – this years finest surfing photography was mas o menos owned by the talented Zak Noyle and Chris Burkard.

2011 was certainly a good year to be in Tahiti. One of the best water photographers in the biz, Zak Noyle, left his home island of Oahu with a small crew bound for Teahupoo. Talent is great when it comes to photography, but a little bit of luck never hurts either. Nature provided for this shot with a perfect peeling tube ridden by Christian Redongo, and the kind of rainbow that postcards are made of.

Derek Hynd finless at J-Bay by Alan van Gysen

Former pro surfer turned journalist Derek Hynd is one of surfing’s most enigmatic characters. This is why we sent Steve Shearer to learn what he could about Derek and his cult-hero persona and profile him for our October issue. What Shearer discovered that Hynd’s crusade against friction allows him to attain unnatural velocities. Here we see Derek reaching terminal velocity on a wide-open wall at J-Bay.

Iceland lineup by Chris Burkard

When most surfers think of their dream surf trip, they usually don’t picture throwing on a 5/4 wetsuit with booties and gloves in Nordic waters. Luckily for Chris Burkard and a small crew of surfers, this meant that they had all of Iceland’s frigid perfection to themselves. Burkard spent his stay shooting perfect, empty lineups and some of the most awe-inspiring landscapes that you could ever hope to find on a surf trip.

Jesse Merle-Jones from below by Zak Noyle

Nothing matches the calming effect of the underwater world. Even just a few feet below the surface things move in slow motion, colors are muted, hard edges become soft, and quiet envelopes everything. “I love this perspective because it gives surfers such a different view of what they normally see,” says Zak Noyle, who spent an entire day swimming on the reef with just a camera and a pair of goggles. “There’s so much going on below the water that’s hidden to the viewer above, from how shallow the reef really is to the way that the wave barrels and turns inside out on itself below the surface. It’s so beautiful. I kept forgetting to come up for air.” Photo: Noyle

Via Surfer Magazine

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Sean Doherty writes a terrific ground zero account of the first day of this years epic Pipe Masters, grit and tension intact.

Meanwhile, a kid six months younger than Jack looks set to win this contest. You know who. The Florence kid went next level out there today. Around noon, when the wind funked-up crosshore and the swell pulsed and everyone else went into survival mode, the 18-year-old displayed an uncommon and sublime mastery of his home break. When the biggest set of the day mowed through and all four surfers in the water – John John included – found themselves clustered in a pack scrambling for the channel, John John broke from them ever so subtly, heading out instead of across. He duckdived and made it through while the other three visited the Seven Circles of Hell. He then proceeded to find waves wherever he went, the highlight being a supreme read where he highlined a set wave for a small barrel, before the thing bottomed out on the chew ‘n’ spew sandbar. He swooped from the lip, dropping from 12 o’clock high, before setting up the barrel as it squared off. It was a 10 before he even came out.

Via Coastalwatch

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Doug Walker’s The Lost & Found Collection has finally made it online, with interviews and great photography by Dan Merkel, Aaron Chang, Bob Barbour, Lance Trout & Larry Moore.

We all know the feeling when something is lost. But what is the feeling we get when something is found after being lost for 30 year’s? This is my journey after discovering roughly 30,000 black and white dupe negatives found at a flea market in California that capture a time in surfing that made the sport as it is today. This is not a film. This is a documented piece of history that will focus on the Photographers & Surfers of the period. It’s about the greats like Dan Merkel aka “Man Mountain”, Aaron Chang who started his career taking photos of tourists in Waikiki. Bernie Baker, Lance Trout to Bob Barbour as well as classic Surfer’s.

This task of this film is capturing the photographers and figuring out whose images are whose. In the 2 years of organizing all the material and creating proof-sheet notebooks is when my journey started. I started by capturing material from guys like, and filmmaker Greg Weaver. This was a start to see the potential of this medium of film unfold. What I found was the most AMAZING stories being told. Some stories being told for the first time and that is where we turn this story to the Photographers. In 2011 we live in a completely different world. It is fast and mean. Surfing was a sport that was built on soul and I’ve been told by many they feel that surfing has lost its soul.

We live in a digital age. I say digital because film is gone. When Photographers were shooting they were sometimes given 5 rolls of film for the month and had to be extremely selective on focusing on their subject using 400mm lenses. They would ship there negative back with surfers or send by boat from the North Shore and could take up to 2 weeks before being delivered. Film was being processed, published and edited by the magazines while photographers continued to live the dream. We are now in a digital world where the RED camera can capture 30 frames per second at 4k resolution which means that you can make a million mistakes for 1 shot when these guys could not.

Being a Film Editor for many years as well as a Surfer since the age of 10. Two days before I discovered this gift I was telling my office for someone to find me a surf project and here it is. Being a Film Editor I have the background for telling a very compelling story as well have become a Director. I feel that I have created a film that we all could be inspired and proud of as it allows us to hear stories for the first time.

This is not just about photos from the 70’s. But it is art and art has a price that is priceless.

I have being told that I didn’t find them. They found me.

This is LOST & FOUND

Via The Lost & Found Collection

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The Surfer Poll 2011 is upon us and above are the nominees for Worst Wipeout (in a video, it should be added). None are quite as horrifying as Bradley Norris’ leap of faith at The Right earlier this year, but they are still pretty hectic. I don’t know if Evan Faulks’ is the worst, but it’s certainly the funniest.

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